Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Slovenia: A Beautiful Surprise

I had no pre-set ideas about Slovenia. Some areas that lay behind the iron curtain are, to be frank, pretty ugly - so perhaps my expectations were inclined in that direction. But actually, this charming little country resembles nowhere so much as Switzerland, although thankfully with better prices. It is so clean, green and mountainous, with crystal clear lakes, snowy Alps, history – seriously, it makes for a great destination! It's not as cheap as some of the surrounding countries, but it's still reasonable enough. The capital, little jewel that it is, is far from undiscovered and the Slovenians are well aware of the value of the tourist dollar. Bordering on Croatia, Italy, and Austria, it is as you can imagine rife with culture. We decided to visit Ljubljana, a word which took us weeks to master, as well as the lakes district, specifically Bled and Bohinj. We had the added bonus of an unwanted visit to the seriously ugly city of Maribor, about which I can only say, should you be tempted, don't bother.

Fall is so beautiful in this part of the world. The sun is shining, the air is crisp, and in the morning a golden mist rises from the ground. It is quite heavily forested and the leaves are shades of red and yellow. I love autumn, and this is autumn at its most perfect. All of this beauty also makes it a great time to travel because the tourist hordes are thankfully elsewhere. I feel that by describing how Slovenia looks I am trying to write some bad romantic novel, but I promise that this really is the truth!

The drive from Vienna to Ljubljana winds through sublime scenery, crossing a mountainous Austrian state known as Styria. Styria is covered in vineyards, neatly groomed little farmlands, and rocky outcrops topped with ruins of old fortresses and castles. The landscape remains much the same once you cross the Slovenian border although the building styles do start to take on an eastern appearance.

In Ljubljana we booked ourselves into the Jazz Hotel, a tiny little jazz themed house close to the castle and old city. When we arrived we were told that the owner wasn't there yet so we had to sit in the coffee bar and wait, and wait...and wait. Apparently they were trying to 'call' someone to help us, despite it being a mid Saturday afternoon and a group of some 12 people all wanting to check in. About an hour later, after a number of complaints, a man who had been sitting beside us at the coffee house the entire time stood up and finally decided let us in. Who was he? The owner. Who didn't seem the least bit bothered by the line of travellers who needed to access his establishment. So, the first lesson learned was that no one is in a hurry here – ever. They will do things in their own time, when they are ready. I'm not even sure what you would call this mindset apart from bad for business. Anyway, at least he was nice and made up for this first impression by setting us up with a driver to visit the two biggest lakes the next day.

The city itself is really pretty, filled with winding cobblestone streets and colourful old buildings. A castle sits atop a very steep, forested hill in the middle, a river lined with weeping willows runs through the middle as do canals. The buildings are old and just so perfectly shabby with many featuring interesting traditional Slavic designs. The regional food was also for the most part really good, especially the fresh cheese dumplings with wild mushrooms. The wine was a bit on the too dry side however, and the local take on Mexican (which replaced the rice in a burrito with boiled cabbage...yah, a style of cuisine that could be described as Moscow meets Mexico City) was lacking. The desserts were divine, especially at this one cafe called Cacao. If you ever go to Ljubljana, you MUST go here and try the sacher torte flavoured ice cream. I think they import it...from heaven ;). If you have gourmand leanings then you would also appreciate that around Slovenia's borders with Italy and Croatia lies truffle country. Both the black and white delicacies were ubiquitous and so, so tasty. Just smelling truffle takes me to my happy place, I swear.  At one of the local market stalls we bought something called Ghee, a type of clarified butter made with truffles. I have been experimenting with it since returning and must say that it makes roast chicken much more interesting. Even cooler, I found a fresh dairy and cheese vending machine in the middle of town.

We also made trips to the two main lakes in the country, Bohinj and Bled, chauffered by a mirrored aviator sporting - and admittedly kind of sexy – chain smoking, Led Zepplin loving driver who moonlighted as a commercial pilot and engineer. Interesting how you often meet people with these eclectic skill sets when you head east and south in the world. I guess tourism is where the real money lies. Our first stop Lake Bled is around 60 kilometres, or halfway across the tiny country, from Ljubljana. Bled is also a picturesque little resort village that lines the lake's shores. Above the lake on a rock promontory towers a medieval castle and in the middle sits an island that is home to a 17th century church featuring a baroque 99 step staircase to the top. There is not a scrap of garbage to be seen anywhere in the area and water is glacial run off from the surrounding Julian Alps, crystal clear and emerald green in colour. To get to the island you must take a little wooden gondola steered by a local, because no power boats are allowed to spoil this pristine wilderness. This means that a visit here is an incredibly peaceful experience. The second lake, Bohinj, was still further into the mountains along a route that really, really looked like Switzerland. It was more natural than Bled, lying in a national park and apart from one tiny cafe on its shore, without signs of humanity. We sat at the lakeside enjoying our lunch in the sunshine, discussing how being surrounded by such beauty makes you feel lucky to be alive. Honestly, these are some of the most beautiful spots I have ever seen. Be warned that if you do go, there are not really reliable bus lines to get around the country, so you will need to either find a driver or rent a car yourself to get to these places. The good news is that the drivers in Slovenia are very civilized so you don't need to be scared, unlike in say Romania.

I can only highly recommend Slovenia. Whether you like culture, food and historic cities, or you prefer hiking and being out in nature – it offers all of them in equal measure. And despite moving at their own pace in the service industry,  the people were generally nice and interesting to talk to too – just don't get them started talking about their arch nemeses the Slovaks ;)

Actually, one warning I will give: beware of gypsies here! I caught one with her hand right in my purse. It was a close call.


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