A little more Johannesburg

I spent part of the June/July break in Johannesburg doing some mining communications work. Jozi as the locals call it has really grown on me. It’s not beautiful like the Cape…in fact you could say it’s pretty ugly. In winter, even though it is sunny every day, the city envelops you in brownness. The grass is brown, the trees are brown, the buildings are brown, and even the sky has a thick layer of brown smog upon which the blue rests. And the ridiculously dry air sucks all moisture out of your system leaving you thirsty, dry eyed, and leathery skinned. And yet, despite it all this the place really gets under your (leathery) skin. Beyond the massive shopping malls lie unique little neighbourhoods like Melville and Newtown, and awesome weekend farmers and arts markets. Spending a Sunday afternoon dancing salsa on a rooftop patio at Arts on Main was pretty amazing, especially because it was 25 degrees in the winter sunshine. But unfortunately, unless you are lucky enough to know locals you will never find these places as a tourist. Even the CBD, one of the more dangerous neighbourhoods has a certain kind of African flavour that you don’t see in Cape Town. Maybe it’s because it’s dangerous that it becomes kind of exhilarating to visit. My friend Charles (Howard) who many back home will know, took my friend Tsholo and I on a tour of the historic Anglo American offices which occupy almost a quarter of the CBD. Maybe they weren’t quite as impressive as their London outpost, but there’s something about the history and legacy that holds you in awe. Also, they aren’t shabby. I would never move to Johannesburg, but if I did, I know where I would be applying for work. The nightlife too is different to Cape Town. I think because it feels mixed – you don’t really find this in the Cape - it’s more fun, more African feeling and you end up in conversations with an interesting range of people on any given night out. I’m not sure I will be spending much time in Jozi from now on, but I have to admit that if I don’t come back again I will be disappointed.