One highlight of my 2015 was the
fulfilment of a dream holiday: a leisurely two week road trip
through France. The starting point was Paris, the end point was Monte
Carlo. I've been to Paris and the Riviera before, but nowhere in
between...and boy did I ever want to see the in between. The only
rule that applied was no highways allowed – scenic back routes
only. I am a shamelessly full fledged Francophile. French food,
French fashion, French architecture...I love it all. And after this
trip, I love it all more than ever. The reason this opportunity
landed in my lap is that an old co-worker acquaintance from Vancouver
had booked the trip and needed a navigator. A tough job, but someone
has to do it – so why not me? Admittedly we were very ill suited
travel buddies – it can be hard when you have no interests or
anything really in common – but that can't negate from the sights
that were seen.
Because I am sitting on top of a pile
of half written posts, I must own up to the fact that this trip took
place at the end of May. The significance of this timing is that I
got to visit Monaco during the Formula 1 as well as Cannes during the
film festival. These were not, however, the highlights of the trip.
That honour I think is reserved for Mont Saint Michel and
Amboise...or the Dordogne region...or Chenonceau. In fact, how does
one pick a highlight from such a trip? It's impossible.
The meeting point was Paris' Charles de
Gaulle airport. Because I didn't fly in, I had to take a public bus
from one of the central stations. This was an eye opening experience.
I've been to Paris a few times, but only to the prettier, tourist
friendly (I mean aesthetically, we know tourist friendly in France is
an oxymoron) parts. I had no idea about the shabby, concrete bunker
filled, Islamic suburbs that lay just outside the centre. Paris has
never been my favourite city. I mean, I like to visit of course but I
have never had a burning desire to make it my home, it never delved
into my psyche like New York did for a period, or Sydney. And this to
the point where I might not pursue my dream job at UNESCO after
graduation because I really don't want to live there.
Day one saw a leisurely drive through
Brittany with a stop in medieval Domfort. Then through Normandy to
the coastline and Mont Saint Michel. For years I have badly wanted to
see the Mont. In case you don't know, it's a monastery and abbey just
off the Normandy coast that was formerly only accessible when the
tide was out. So when it emerged from the mist in the distance like a
ghostly apparition, I could barely contain my excitement. The little
fortification is just so spectacular. It's touristy of course, I mean
who wouldn't want to see this place? Once you cross the causeway and
head inside the walls there is of course an onslaught of tourist junk
pedlers and food. But as you head up the winding pathways into the
abbey itself it becomes easier and easier to imagine how it might
have been when the only residents were monks. What else I can say for
Normandy and its landscape? It is my dream to own a little stone farm
house in the country here...and the food...I'm not sure it possible
to put into words how much I love French food. While there are a lot
of foie gras farms in this area - which is decidedly not my thing –
too unethical and too rich, I can't rave enough about the crepes. How
do the French always manage to make these things so perfectly? What,
I want to know, is their secret?!
After spending time in this region I
would have been sad to leave if not for the fact we were next headed
for the Loire Chateaux region. Ach, what can I say? This was also
mind blowing. The French style of castle is my favourite, and here
they are just sprinkled so liberally throughout the countryside. I
guess the aristocracy liked to be in close proximity. Our first stop
was the old town of Laval on the Mayenne river, followed by one of my
new most favourite places: Amboise. Amboise lies on the banks of the
Loire, right in the middle of this region and is home to the Chateau
d'Amboise within which lies Leonardo DaVinci's final resting place.
You can also visit Clos Luce Villa, DaVinvi's house with a garden and
museum filled with prototypes of his elaborate inventions. What a
peaceful, inspiring place this was, and it was no wonder he made it
his home. There were also visits to many surrounding towns and two of
the more famous chateaux (you can't possibly see them all). Chambord
was beautiful from the outside though apparently quite empty from
within. The grounds were nice but not as elaborate as some others. Of
course it was still stunning. But the second really captured my heart
and imagination. It was called Chenonceau and once belonged to Diane
de Poitiers as well as Catherine de Medici. It was famously built
over the river Cher in the 16th century so that boats could pass
underneath. Not only were the gardens breathtaking, but I loved the
airy white interiors bathed in sunlight. Not stuffy or baroque in the
least (Ludwig II could have learned a thing or two here), you could
immediately tell this palace belonged to a woman, and one with taste.
It is now one of my favourite places anywhere in the world.
Next we headed in the direction of the
Limousin region (I never knew there was such a place), home to a very
famous...cow breed. This is the farming area of France, super green,
almost wild country side with rolling hills. Guess what? I loved it
again. Except I didn't love its capital city Limoges. Limoges, you
might have heard, is famous for its porcelain. But I must say that
apart from a decent gothic cathedral, it didn't impress. It was a
boring stop that didn't need more than a day. All I gained really was
that I can say I have been. From here we continued on to more
impressive places, namely the Dordogne. I know I sound like I'm
showing off now, but I swear I am not – my god was this place also
spectacular! It is the gourmet region within France, bordered by the
Pyrenees on one side, Loire on the other. Once again chateaux are
dotted throughout very green, very hilly countryside. We stopped in
two towns here, both medieval and both quaint like postcards –
Montignac and Perigord. So lush, roses blooming and climbing
everywhere, the sound of singing birds heavy in the air...these
places are so romantic (which is sad when you are travelling with your
very platonic older friend). Little restaurants lined the river
Dordogne, narrow streets were covered in flowers and mossy old walls,
charmingly crooked medieval buildings. And the food, what can one
even really say? Everywhere sold little jams, pates, and the streets
were covered with open air markets stocked with fresh local produce –
it certainly comes very close to my idea of paradise.
I was sad to leave this little region
but excited to revisit the Riviera, which was our next stop. The
coming days brought a sojourn in Avignon – loved this city as well,
there was something very unique about the mix of the light and colour
of the buildings, especially the papal palace. We stayed in an
ancient hotel across the palace square, where the pope's stables were
formerly housed. We also made a point to see the Pont d'Avignon
bridge made famous in song – though it didn't really compare to
other sights from the trip, and wandered the city's sun dappled and
wind swept streets. The next day brought Aix en Provence, another
place I had always wanted to see. Aix is nice, but I am sad to say
that I found it a little disappointing. I think the sights from the
trip to date had set us up to have ridiculously high standards.
From Aix we headed to Nice to set up a
Riviera home base for the following days. Following past visits, I
have always been partial to Nice. As well as enjoying being in the
city again, I went off to Cannes to check out the film festival vibe.
Even more impressive yachts than usual lined the harbour, there was
some great shopping, but I didn't spot any celebrities (though that
is not a game I am good at) – I don't mind Cannes. It's a cute
little city, though maybe it was a bit too Americanized during this
particular time. Also went back to Monaco. I love the views in Monaco
but I have also been here before and found I liked it much better the
first time. The scenery from the cliff tops is still spectacular
(especially from this one spot near the cathedral where Princess
Grace is buried), and there was an electricity in the air because
Formula 1 was underway (my god it was crowded). Hearing the revving
engines and watching the races far below from the palace, or even
just wandering the streets in the city was fun. But I don't love
Monaco actually. It feels too sterile and there are always so many
Eurotrashy douchebags cruising the streets. No thanks. But what I do
love on the Riviera are the little villages like Villefranche sur Mer
and Antibes...I just love wandering the streets of these little sun
drenched places. I hope I am able to retire here one day. I find the
Mediterranean atmosphere relaxes you immediately. I also managed to
squeeze in a trip to Grasse, another city I really wanted to see.
Grasse is known as one of the world's perfume capitals, home to
Fragonard and other potion makers. Honestly, there are some pretty
sketchy areas in this town. It's a long walk up a very steep hill
from the train station to the old city and I definitely passed some
less than desirable characters along the way. But I love perfume and
so really enjoyed visiting the museums and sampling the wares. From a
scentual (I know, I know, worst pun ever) perspective this is a very
interesting place to visit.
The trip was so long, and since I was
lazy about finishing this post, I fear I have forgotten other spots
along the way.. But let me say in closing that my obsession with
France rages unabated. Sometimes I feel the deep unfairness of not
having been born French – maybe I am having past life withdrawal ;)
Regardless, I feel like I won the
vacation lottery with this trip. Now I can't wait to go back and
explore other towns and regions that I haven't seen. France always
keeps me coming back for more.
